no pinups or gamines here

Before the rule of the great fashion photographers including Newton and Demarchelier, the high fashion bibles were lit up with the luminous illustrations of artists such as Antonio (Lopez), Erte and Gruau. With the modern predominance of photography in the fashion industry, the role of the fashion illustrator is no longer as pivotal as it once was - but a recent sale of illustrator Rene Gruau's work showed that there is still a great level of appreciation for the art form.

The pieces listed for sale at the Christie's auction house were estimated at approximately £3000 but most reached prices over the £10,000 mark. Reminiscent of Toulouse Lautrec's images of Parisian nightlife, Gruau's sparse lines and spare colour palette bestow a bold strength and confident presence to his subjects- biographer Gilles de Bure noted that "Gruau's women are not gamines and never pinups".

His "women" have worn the most iconic of labels; Balenciaga, Balmain, Givenchy, Lanivin and Dior, in some of the most prestigious magazines; Marie Claire, Vogue, Elle and Harper's Bazaar. They now grace the halls of the most illustrious gallery in the world, The Louvre and, since the auction, the walls of some very lucky collectors. Its nice to see that the work of the fashion illustrator is still relevant and appreciated in today's 'instant' culture; a step back and a moment taken to appreciate the finery of both the art and the fashion.

under the sea with McQueen

Gorgeous insight into the inner workings of the latest collection under Sarah Burton with The New York Times fashion critic Cathy Horyn.

Miu Miu's changing face

The choice of 14 year old Hailee Steinfeld for last season's Miu Miu campaign stirred up a little controversy as to whether brand ambassadors should represent the age of the brand's customer base or whether the ambassador represnted the embodiment of the season's 'idea' of the collection's muse. While Hailee might be only half the age of the clothing's intended market, the images are stunning and I think capture the fun 40s aesthetic of the collection...

But those who still question the merits of a girl in women's clothing will be pleased to hear that the new face of Miu Miu for the coming season is 34 year old Guinevere van Seenus. A complete change of mood here, sophisticated, darker and very appropriate for the changing season.

ones to watch: Ada Zanditon

“In the fragile seagrass beds of England’s southeast coast, lives the mythical Poseisus. She begins her metamorphic journey towards the distant tropical shores of Haiti as the rumbled call of the Haitian Kanaval drums ripple and swell the ocean tide, drawing in the ornate Seahorse.  She finally emerges from the glistening crystal water, her outer skin transformed into a magnificent Kanaval dress as she steps onto the sand in human form.“


Thus is the story of fashion newcomer Ada Zanditon's SS12 Collection as presented at September's London Fashion Week Digital Schedule. The eco-minded young designer graduated from the London College of Fashion in 2009.  Since then she has received the Masters of Linen- Creativity Award in Paris and the EFF & Fairtrade Foundation's Innovation Award. I think it's clear that we can expect big things from this young lady.

creepy crawlies

These little metallic insects are some that I'd definitely like love to have around my house! They are from NY designer Eddie Borgo who is simply bursting onto the jewellery scene with his collection that fuses elements of rock and roll, American heritage, high and low end fashion and instills these elements in unique, highly covetable pieces that are so very now. 

Eddie Borgo's first eponymous collection debuted in SS09 after getting his start designing one-off pieces for stylists such as Tabitha Simmons, Camilla Nickerson and Patti Wilson and then designing the SS09 accessories for Phillip Lim's show. In June this year, he won the CFDA Swarovski Award for Accessory Design. I don't think it's the last we'll be hearing from this exciting new talent....

Versace for H&M campaign

After the slow drip-through of tantalising sneak peeks, the official H&M x Versace campaign has been released. Shot by Mert & Marcus, the shots feature Abbey-Lee Kershaw, Daphne Groenveld, Lindsey Wixson and Sasha Pivovarova in iconic Versace looks that have been reimagined for the global retailer. Please excuse the dodgy scanned quality of the images!


Clothes enter stores on November 17.

sneaky peek at Versace for H&M

Here is a sneaky look at the upcoming Versace collaboration with H&M courtesy of Anna Dello Russo!

The highly anticipated collection has been many years in the making as Donatella repeatedly refused the opportunity for fear it would devalue the Versace brand. But in the light of the previous successes of brands such as Sonia Rykiel and Lanvin, she has relented and the collection will be in store on November 17.

Dita Von Teese to launch new label

Dita Von Teese has announced the launch of her collection 'Dita Von Teese Muse' to be sold exclusively through Australia's David Jones department store. Comprising of five limited-edition dresses following Ms Teese's own personal aesthetic, will be hitting store just in time for the Australian racing season. Dita Von Teese will be in Melbourne in late October to celebrate Derby Day at the Melbourne Spring Racing Carnival and it is believed she will use this opportunity to launch the label.

The dresses will be in sizes 8-20, and despite the failure to pin down an actual launch date, are assured to be in stores before the biggest of Australian racing days, the Melbourne Cup.

Lana Del Rey

Those of you who are regulars here will know that I love this girl's music, so I'm happy to say that her EP will finally be available on the 16th of October. It features 'Blue Jeans' and her hugely popular 'Video Games'. They're both below if you care for a listen...

red army

Expect to see a lot more of Louboutin-red pounding the London streets next March when the luxury shoe label's fans descend upon the Design Museum for a retrospective exhibition of the Christian Louboutin shoe.

The exhibition will feature a footwear/film collaboration with master of the surreal, David Lynch and will explore the artisanal, as well as the aesthetic, qualities of each Louboutin shoe, revealing the craftsmanship and design expertise that goes into cladding each iconic red sole.

"I hate the whole concept of comfort...I just picture a woman feeling bad, with a big bottle of alcohol, really puffy. It's really depressing, but she likes her life because she has comfortable clogs."

 Whether you agree with Louboutin's inflammatory statement or not, you can't deny the pure mastery the man holds over the modern high heel. Check the Design Museum website for more details closer to the date.

sea creatures

An unexpected trend to come out of the Spring/Summer 12 shows was 'under the sea'. First seen above at the spellbinding Chanel show in ethereal white and mother-of pearl, Christopher Kane's show in shimmering pearls and aquas and now rearing it's foam-encrusted head in Something Else's latest video...

cut glass

Things I'm loving at the moment: Elie Saab Perfume, Anton Heunis Ring, The Wild Unknown Prism

Kanye lost in the jungle

"Remember those hyenas we saw fighting over the warthog carcass? Well, I'll be the warthog." Love that quote from Cady in 'Mean Girls' and so apt at the moment for poor old Kanye West and his debut womenswear collection in Paris this season. It has been called "rap with a capital-C" by the new Fashion Director of the Telegraph, Lisa Armstrong and Suzy Menkes of The New York Times stated that "a celebrity tag and a lively audience filled with music-business friends does not cut it in Paris" and indeed, it hasn't. The consensus seems to be unanimous that the collection is a failure with critics the globe over tearing shreds off his fashion carcass. But really, it would be hard to see how anyone could find an original, applaudable idea within the range.

It is an absurd and seasonally inappropriate beast of a collection featuring too much fur, coats and knits for a Spring/Summer offering. The silhouette varies wildly from body-con dresses, to seventies lounge, to Balmain-esque power shoulders and tailored trousers. The colour palette is that of slightly mismatched neutrals with the occasional shot of bright primary or metallics, leaving it a little visually jarring and uncomfortable. “I had a lot of ideas about colors and shapes I wanted to express …" said Kanye, but that's still no excuse to include ALL of them. There just doesn't seem to be a consistent idea running through the collection in any way, or any clear idea really, except for that of derivative rehashing of other designers' work. 

The presentation was not only offensive to those who had to sit through it, but has also rubbed C-rap in the faces of all those fresh and talented designers out there struggling to get noticed on the main stage of fashion as well as the established designers who are already showing at Paris Fashion Week. The best metaphor I can think of for the collection is the baboon-bottomed trousers Kanye chose to send down the Catwalk as his final look - embarrassing and offensive. With the abundance of crazy fur, the C-rap flinging,  baboon bottoms and hyenas circling it seems like the fashion jungle has decreed Kanye its new jester, not its king.

Check out this video of the finale and see what you think.

ones to watch: Fallulah

For those who don't already know her from her hits songs "I Lay My Head" and "Bridges"on the 2010 album "The Black Cat Neighbourhood" , Fallulah is the alter ego of Danish singer-songwriter Maria Apetri. Of combined Danish and Romanian descent, Fallulah attributes her musical inspiration to Balkan folk music and stories from her own life.

‘For a long time I thought I could only write if I was really sad. When I met my boyfriend I was really scared that I wouldn’t be able to write good songs anymore because I was too happy, but actually I wrote some of my best songs after I met him.’

With performances in Hoxton and The Bowery in London this year she has won the heart of the London music scene - next stop, who knows - the world is this girl's oyster.

Here is her single 'Bridges' with a video directed by Michael Vogt featuring the latest urban sport craze, 'Dance and Run'. Also check out her website here.

little black mess

No wardrobe is complete without a staple little black dress - so here is my pick of this season's. Print, draping, lurex, knit, embroidery, leather and beading all make a show here, so I guess you could say it's going to be a very textural winter. In lust-have order:

Dream dress... Miu Miu embellished crepe with cutaway back £2,845

Draped perfection... Acne Darling silk dress £240

Minimalist punk... Camilla & Marc quilted leather and ponti dress £510

Exquisite embroidery... Day Birger et Mikkelsen dress £180

Lovely lurex... I actually own this one and can attest to its subtle lurex loveliness and extreme comfort. It literally just pulls on over the head and you're completely dressed - gorgeous.

 Vaness Bruno Athe £234

Cute chinoiserie... cheap and cheerful this one!

Topshop dress £50

Shopping Soundtrack: